All Chef Should Train Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Top Food Spots.
Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.
An Surprise Recognition
The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners totally surprised.
“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Character of Simplicity
This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.
A Signature Dish: Tantuni
In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.
It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.
The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.
Rising Above the Stars
Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.
A Philosophy of Warmth
It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
The Story of Dedication
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
A Recognition for the People
The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.